Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts
the stars to flight.

And, lo, the hunter of the east has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable – Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain.

Cosas de España

Mark Stücklin of Spanish Property Insight says that the proposed measures aimed at non-EU buyers of property here are less about effective policy and more about political posturing—designed to appeal to voters ahead of a potential early general election in 2026. By targeting a politically voiceless group (non-resident foreigners who can’t vote), the PSOE gets to look tough on housing without upsetting any domestic voting blocs.

Faithful – if episodic – reader Noémi writes here of the little culture shocks you’ll experience, if you move to Spain. And each regions will have one or more of its own. Why not subscribe, like me, to her blog.

Cosas de Galicia

Early summer in Pv city these days – Caminers coming at you from every direction and guided groups of up to 40 blocking the narrow streets.

As I’ve said, more and more like Santiago de Compostela. But without the cathedral and the semi-compulsory Pilgrim Mass. Sigh . . . Will our waiters and waitresses eventually become as desultory as they are nowadays in SdC?

On my way into and out of the old quarter, I pass – 4 times a day – a couple of adjacent ex-mansions, of which only the facades remain. Usually, one can only glimpse the ruins behind these through tiny gaps but, yesterday, a gate of one was open,so I could take a few fotos and to try to imagine the place in its glory days.

I suspect the metal spiral staircase – to be contrasted with the fine stone one – went from the kitchen to the servants’ quarters.

At the back of the garden was a shed with an encrusted Citroen in it and the inevitable question arose of whether it’s old enough to have great value, if restored. Though I doubt it is.

The matriculation number would surely reveal when it first hit the road. Certainly more than 20 years ago. Anyone interested?

Portugal

Having watched Porto’s airport grow from a 3rd world facility in 2000 to the huge, modern one it is now, I’ve noted more than once that Galicia’s 3 small international airports for a population of 2.8m is a commercial nonsense. One specific . . . In contrast with Porto, there are no flights at all from the North West of England to any of the 3 Galician airports. Like very many Galicians, I travel down to Porto, if I want to fly there – or anywhere in the UK apart from London. Today’s VdG has this to say on the subject: Porto Takes Over Flights: The central government believes the Xunta and the 3 cities with airports have an essential role in gaining passengers and that coordination between the 3 airports depends on said regional government and municipalities. Instead, inaction is driving airlines and users to other terminals with more offers. For example to Porto, which has more flights to Madrid, Barcelona, ​​and Valencia than any of the Galician airports. The solution indicated is the privatisation of one of the terminals, as this would maximize profitability and allow it to compete on equal terms with Porto. Hmm. I personally don’t see how this would help as much as rationalising the 3 down to 1, in Santiago de Compostela. But the truth is that local politics are a barrier to any and every solution. I don’t expect anything significant to change in my lifetime. Thank god it’s an easy drive or bus trip down to Porto.

Trumpworld/LA LA Land

Wow. Musk v. Trump . . . Elon has threatened to unseat any Republican who backed Trump’s BBB. Allegedly sending the Republicans into chaos. . .

Jimmy Kimmel was very good last night on this, and other aspects of life at the court of Trump.

Another ego trip, this time in respect of Trump’s official portrait.

I wonder if one day someone will pluck up the courage to say to Trump: Sir. Do you ever fear that if you talk like an imbecile and act like an imbecile, people one day might actually think you are an imbecile? Perhaps Melania, after the divorce. Meanwhile . . .

Quote of the Day

Trump is running the government out of his hip pocket.

Russia v. Ukraine

Serious stuff on Russia:-

• On the implications of the Ukrainian attack of those airports. Putin’s disappearance being one of these, amidst rivalry between the military and the secret services. Possibly suggesting the early stages of the breakdown of the Russian state.
• The same expert talks about the attack on the Crimean bridge.
• A fascinating podcast on the nature of Russian society and the attitudes and aspirations of its leaders – Could Project Russia destroy the West? Yes, is the answer to that.

Spanish

• Agobiado: Overwhelmed.
• Plusmarquista: Record holder.
• Achacar: To blame, attribute to
• Ocasión: Occasion, chance, opportunity, bargain.

You Have to Laugh

Private Eye again . .

Finally . . .

Very probably the penultimate selection of bits from The Pillow Book. . . .

Enviable People

• People who have a good hand, who are skilful at composing poems, and who are always chosen first when there is a letter to be written… Several women are attending a lady of quality who wishes a letter to be written on her behalf to an important person. Obviously many of them are suited for the task (it is not likely that all her women will have writing as feeble as the tracks of a bird’s feet); yet the lady especially summons a woman who is not in the room and, producing her own inkstone, tells her to write the letter. This is bound to make the others envious. The fortunate woman may be one of the older members of the household, whose writing is of the most elementary kind; yet she will set herself to the task with enthusiasm. On the other hand she may be an experienced calligrapher. Perhaps the letter is going to some High Court Noble; or possibly it is intended to introduce a young woman who is hoping to take service in the Palace. The writer is instructed to do her very best, and she begins by carefully selecting the paper. Meanwhile her fellow attendants gather round and make envious jokes.
• On first learning the zither or the flute, one is extremely envious of experienced players and wonders when one will ever reach that stage.
• The nurse of the Emperor or of the Crown Prince.
• The women in the Palace who are privileged to see His Majesty’s consorts.
• People who can afford to build their own Chapel of Meditation and pray there in the evening and at dawn.
• When one’s opponent has a lucky throw of dice in back gammon, he is most enviable.
• A saint who has really given up all thoughts of the world.

Things That One Is in a Hurry to See or to Hear

• Rolled dyeing, uneven shading, and all other forms of dappled dyeing.
• When a woman has just had a child, one is in a hurry to find out whether it is a boy or a girl. If she is a lady of quality, one is obviously most curious; but, even if she is a servant or someone else of humble station, one still wants to know.
• Early in the morning on the first day of the period of official appointments one is eager to hear whether a certain acquaintance will receive his governorship.

Things That are Distant Though Near

• Festivals celebrated near the Palace.
• Relations between brothers, sisters, and other members of a family who do not love each other.
• The zigzag path leading up to the temple at Kurama.
• The last day of the Twelfth Month and the first of the First.

Things That are Near Though Distant

• A letter from the man one loves.
• Paradise.
• The course of a boat.
• Relations between a man and a woman. 

When a Woman Lives Alone

• Her house should be extremely dilapidated, the mud wall should be falling to pieces, and if there is a pond, it should be overgrown with water-plants.
• It is not essential that the garden be covered with sage-brush; but weeds should be growing through the sand in patches, for this gives the place a poignantly desolate look.
• I greatly dislike a woman’s house when it is clear that she has scurried about with a knowing look on her face, arranging every thing just as it should be, and when the gate is kept tightly shut.

When a Court Lady Is on Leave

• It is pleasant if she can stay with her parents. While she is there, people are always coming and going, there is a lot of noisy conversation in the back rooms, and the clatter of horses’ hoofs resounds outside. Yet she is in no danger of being criticized.
• Things are very different if she is staying in someone else’s house. Let us suppose that a man comes to visit the lady, either openly or in secret. He stands by the front gate and says to her, “I did not know you were at home, else I should certainly have called on you before. When will you return to Court?” If it is a man she has set her heart on, the lady cannot possibly leave him standing outside and she opens the front door for him. Then, to her great annoyance, she hears the owner of the house, who has evidently decided that there is too much noise and that it is dangerous to leave the door unbolted so late at night. “Has the outer gate been closed?” he asks the porter. “No, Sir,” says the latter in a disgruntled tone. “There’s still a visitor in the house.” “Well, be sure to close it as soon as he’s left. There have been a lot of burglaries recently.” This is especially irksome for the lady, since the man who is with her can hear everything. Meanwhile the servants are constantly peeping in to see whether the guest is getting ready to leave – much to the amusement of the attendants who have accompanied him on his visit. Then the attendants start imitating the owner’s voice. Oh, what a scolding there would be if he heard them! Sometimes the lady will receive visits from a man who does not show any tender feelings for her in either his looks or his words. Presumably he must care for her; else why would he continue his visits night after night? Nevertheless the man may turn out to be quite harmless and will leave her saying, “It’s really getting late. And I suppose it is rather dangerous to keep the gate open at this hour.”
• One can tell if a man really loves one, because he will insist on staying all night however much one may urge him to leave. Time after time the night watchman has made his rounds, and now he exclaims in a very audible voice, “Good heavens! The dawn has come” (as if it were so surprising) “and someone’s gone and left the gate wide open all night. Such carelessness!” Then he securely bolts the gate, though it is now light and there is no need for such precautions. How unpleasant it all is!
• Yes, things are a great deal better when one is staying with one’s own parents.
• Parents-in-law, however, are the most awkward of all, since one is always worrying about what they are going to think.
• I imagine that it must also be difficult to stay with an elder brother.
• What I really like is a house where no one cares about the gate either in the middle of the night or at dawn, and where one is free to meet one’s visitor, whether he be an Imperial Prince or a gentleman from the Palace.
• In the winter one can stay awake together all night with the lattices wide open. When the time comes for him to leave, one has the pleasure of watching him playing upon his flute as he goes; if a bright moon is still hanging in the sky, it is a particular delight. After he has disappeared, one does not go to bed at once, but stays up, discussing the visitor with one’s companions, and exchanging poems; then gradually one falls asleep.

The Usual Links . . .

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For new readers: If you’ve landed here looking for info on Galicia or Pontevedra, try here. If you’re passing through Pontevedra on the Camino, you’ll find a guide to the city there.

For those thinking of moving to Spain:–

• This is an extremely comprehensive and accurate guide to the challenge, written by a Brit who lives in both the North and the South and who’s very involved in helping Camino walkers.
• This post of mine contains several relevant articles from ThinkSpain.
• This article ‘debunks claims re wealth and residency taxes’. Probably only relevant if you’re a HNWI. In which case, you’ll surely know what that stands for.
• Getting a mortgage in Spain: Some advice on this challenge.
• A comparison of UK and Spanish living costs.
• And here’s a personal guide to moving to Spain – to work, not to retire.