Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts
the stars to flight.

And, lo, the hunter of the east has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable – Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain.

Cosas de España

For those who think about the future, here’s something on the (non)sustainability of the Spanish pensions system.’

And here’s news of a major development in the area of tourist flats. I wonder if this will hit my neighbour 3 doors down in my community, where she’s investing a huge amount to expand her house to accommodate at least 2 families in summer. Likewise the neighbour 4 doors down, who did this a few years ago.

Cousas de Galicia

I sometimes find myself wondering what has changed significantly since I came to live in Galicia in October 2000. Indeed, I sometimes happen upon notes I’ve put on my computer on this theme. Ignoring those for now, this is what I jotted down over my coffee in El Casino this morning;-

• The Camino. Of course. This was prompted by headlines today about the Pv city council taking measures to deal with the (excess) numbers. One of these is that groups of more than 25(sic) can’t book beds in the dormitory of our only public albergue. Pilgrims have changed not only in number – from c. 5,000 to 150,000(!) a year – but also in profile. Back in 2000, very few backpackers will have been able to afford hotel rooms and restaurant meals every night. And – in the absence of carrier companies – they would probably have all toted their rucksacks. Finally, I doubt they would have started coming in March. From which tine walking the Portuguese Camino is increasingly like being on an airport conveyor belt – people less that a metre both in front of and behind you. I exaggerate, but only a tad.
• English: Associated with growth in Camino numbers and posher pilgrims, is the ability of hotel and restaurant staff to speak the world’s lingua franca. Back in 2000, none of them did and there was a never a menu in English. Indeed, there was a period – before Google Translate, I guess – when I was translating menus regularly for places I frequented. Or correcting their humorous attempts.
• The summer High Season: Again reflecting massively increased ‘pilgrim’ numbers, this now stretches beyond the Spanish tradition of August. With concomitant higher prices for at least hotels. As the globe heats up, I wouldn’t be surprised to see the High Season extend into October within 5 years.
• Dogs: Again, numbers and types. When I brought my border collie here in 2000, it was the only one in the city. Now, there are dozens.. As for other breeds, the entire field is covered, though the bias seems to be towards smaller ones. Some of these are tinier than cats. And many of them, despite having what nature has given them, are deemed to need a coat between October and May. I still can’t get used to Spanish males walking miniature dogs not much bigger than rats.
• Trains: Very much improved since 2000, not so much locally as between Galicia and Madrid. It used to take more than 8 hours during the day and 12 at night from Pv city. Now this can be done in 3.5 during the day, though the night-train – much to my disappointment – disappeared with Covid. All that said, there’s currently disquiet about the fact that, unlike elsewhere around the country, we can only book ahead to May, not September. And the fact that it takes still takes 2 hours to get from Ourense to Vigo, via Pv city. This reflects a (questionable) decision taken 30 years ago to take the high-speed line to Santiago de Compostela first. Plus the high-speed track around Ourense has yet to be finished.
• Noise: I’ve cited recent developments in Pv city and now Ferrol (Franco’s birthplace) has announced a wide-ranging noise reduction scheme.

More on this theme tomorrow. Maybe.

The USA

Someone’s theory on why Trump is so fond of tariffs.

What I’ve suspected for a while now . . . Trump’s intimidation tactics risk leaving Americans isolated and poorer. This is one of America’s most shocking economic defeats in 40 years.

Very worrying . . . This columnist says that Project 2025’s top goal is yet to be implemented.

A nice question . . . With ICE on the rampage, how will this affect foreign visitors to the USA for the 2026 World Cup? Especially those from South American countries.

Russia

Quote of the Day

Remarkably, Trump has spent his life feeling like a victim. Any time he doesn’t totally dominate, he feels he is being ripped off. The world is paying the price of his childhood.

Net Zero

A true zealot . . .

Spanish

• Parar las pies: To constrain, stop
• Nomofobia: Fear of being without a mobile(cell) phone.
• Reverdecer: To re-green
• Codearse con: To rub elbows with
• A raudales: In abundance, spades etc. [I suspect I did this one not long ago]

Did You Know?

For those of us who don’t know emojis and can’t be arsed to find the right one, I’ve invented an acronym, to go at the end of messages:-

• RE: Relevant emoji. . . Leaving the (younger/more up-to-speed) recipient to take a guess.

I suppose this can be both pluralised and/or bracketed. Or even extended by the addition of the definite pronoun. So, in it’s fullest form:-

• [TRES]

Or, for Spanish friends . . .

• [3]

Finally . , ,

A friend arriving next week tells me she’ll be picking up a car at Sanitary airport. A computer’s version of Santiago, I guess. Unless there’s a hire company of that name . . .

My thanks to those readers who take the trouble to Like my posts.

The Usual Links . . .

• You can get my posts by email as soon as they’re published. With the added bonus that they’ll contain the typos I’ll discover later. I believe there’s a box for this at the bottom of each post. If you do this but don’t read the posts, I will delete your subscription. So perhaps don’t bother if you have other reasons for subscribing . . .
• I can also be read on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/colin.davies.752861 or on Substack at https://doncolin.substack.com/
• For new readers: If you’ve landed here looking for info on Galicia or Pontevedra, try here. If you’re passing through Pontevedra on the Camino, you’ll find a guide to the city there.
• For those thinking of moving to Spain:– This is an extremely comprehensive and accurate guide to the challenge, written by a Brit who lives in both the North and the South and who’s very involved in helping Camino walkers. And this is something on the so-called Beckham Rule, which is beneficial – tax-wise – for folk who want to work here. But see here on this. And this article ‘debunks claims re wealth and residency taxes’. Probably only relevant if you’re a HNWI. In which case, you’ll surely know what that stands for.
• Getting a mortgage in Spain: Some advice on this challenge.