Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts
the stars to flight.
And, lo, has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light!

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable – Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain’

Cosas de España/Galicia

A look at the PM’s plans for the media which is giving him and his wife a rough time right now.

Here’s Lenox Napier, not on cabbages and king but on islands and enclaves.

A different kind of Catalan madness . . .

Changing Spain . . . The VdG has said there’s talk of school kids – primaria only? – moving to a single-stint day, as opposed to the divided one they currently have, with a long break in the middle of it. But I don’t know if this is a national or just regional conversation. It has to happen some time.

I might have mentioned that I go down to town of an evening earlier than I used, so as to ensure that I get a table at my watering hole before they’re all taken by the (well-heeled) pilgrims-cum-tourists who take evening sustenance well before the locals do. Last night – very possibly reflecting damp weather and reports of an approaching hurricane – there were few folk on the terraza I favour when I arrived. And 30 minutes later, only me! Quite a turnaround.

I don’t dislike individual pilgrims, of course. In fact, I regularly set straight those I see who’ve lost their way, despite using their satnav/GPS. I even offer/give lifts to those I see on the main road, walking 9km along it to Combarro. On the Camino de Padre Sarmiento, discovered/ invented about 10 years ago.

As for the approaching hurricane, now said to be merely a tropical storm . . . This is the expectation for today and tomorrow: Martes por la tarde se percibirán los primeros efectos de Kirk. Un frente bastante activo barrerá la comunidad y descargará con fuerza en las Rías Baixas. El viento también comenzará a soplar con intensidad. Lo peor del temporal llegará a partir de la madrugada del miércoles. Dejará hoy en la comunidad fuertes lluvias y vientos de más de 80 km/h, y mañana las ráfagas superarán los 100 km/h, acompañadas de aguaceros y olas de hasta seis metros en el mar. I’ve taken a foto of my roof so that I can, if necessary show my insurance company the Before and After situations . . .

The UK

There really is such thing as British culture, claims this FT columnist. And it needs to be defended, he asserts. Surely correctly.

John Crace of The Guardian here casts a (very) jaundiced eye over BoJo’s new book, Unhinged. With both displaying their essential qualities.

Italy

If you think you know about Italian food, listen to this to have your illusions shattered. BTW . . Therein, it’s said that the concept of the Mediterranean Diet was primarily developed by an American biologist in the 1970s. 

The USA

If you’d like to hear why a second Trump term would be even worse than you fear, check this podcast, from minute 21.

Russia v. Ukraine

British military intelligence claims that September was the deadliest month for Russia’s army since the start of the war in Ukraine, The average casualty rate for the Russian army rose to 1,271 soldiers killed or badly injured per day. Previously, the highest daily casualty rate for Russian soldiers had been in May, with an average of 1,262 soldiers killed or injured. I don’t suppose Mr Putin cares a jot.

China

A bit of a setback.

The Way of the World

The atheist age has spawned its own superstition, says this columnist.

Social Media

No wonder youngsters are shirking education – they can self-diagnose their way out of anything. Mental health diagnoses are being inflated to the point of worthlessness. It’s high time we stopped fuelling this cop-out culture. Only a UK problem?

English

Cerulean: Azure; sky-blue.

Spanish

Aguacero: Downpour

Did you know?

Your arm position makes a “huge difference” when it comes to an accurate blood pressure measurement. You should always have your arm on a firm support such as a desk or table.

You Have to Laugh

One of those headlines . . . The Marketing director of an alcoholism charity is caught drink-driving and hiding from the police in a bush. She was 3 times over the limit and had 2 previous convictions. So . . . Feet of (soggy) clay. But she knows of an organisation that can help her . . .

Finally . . .

MY YEAR IN THE SEYCHELLES

• Episode 1: 12 September 2024: Why VSO?
• Episode 2: 13 September 2024: The Leaving of Liverpool
• Episode 3: 14 September 2024: An interlude: The Seychelles back then
• Episode 4: 14 September 2024: Departure, Nairobi and Arrival
• Episode 5: 15 September 2024: Arriving in Mombasa
• Episode 6: 16 September 2024: The YCWA in Mombasa
• Episode 7: 17 September 2024: The flight to Mahé
• Episode 8: 18 September 2024: Our Arrival
• Episode 9: 19 September 2024: Early Days
• Episode 10: 20 September 2024: My Colleagues and Some Early Adventures
• Episode 11: 21 September 2024: Mr Warren and Me
• Episode 12: 22 September 2024: Chris Green
• Episode 13: 23 September 2024 The Hotel des Seychelles
• Episode 14: 24 September 2024: A Night to Remember
• Episode 15: 25 September 2024: Visitors
• Episode 16: 26 September 2024: Dr McGregor and Me
• Episode 17: 27 September 2024: Dr McGregor and Me 2
• Episode 18: 28 September 2024: Teaching Duties
• Episode 19: 29 September 2024: The Watch
• Episode 20: 30 September 2024: The Sea and Me
• Episode 21: 1 October 2024: Fishy Tales
• Episode 22: 2 October 2024: Photos
• Episode 23: 3 October 2024: Photos Follow-up
• Episode 24: 4 October 2024: The Seychelles: History, Geography, Climate
• Episode 25: 5 October 2024: The Culture
• Episode 26: 6 October 2024: The Seychellois People
• Episode 27: 7 October 2024: The Language

Episode 28: Politics and Politicians

Note: I was in 2 minds about including this but, having re-read it, decided that it’s amusing at times. To be honest, it bears comparison with tribal Spanish politics of 2024 . . .

If the language of Seychelles was unsophisticated, the politics of the islands were doubly so.

I once described them to a friend, as mere mudslinging and muckraking. But I was reminded that politics have always engendered this kind of thing. This may be so but its undeniably true that mudslinging can be done with a good deal more subtlety and finesse than that displayed by the politicians of the Seychelles.

During my year in the islands there were 2 main political parties -The Seychelles Democratic party (SDP), run by James Mancham and strongly pro British: and the Seychelles Peoples United Party (SPUP), run by Albert René and strongly anti British. Since the majority of the Seychellois realised that the islands could not survive without financial assistance from Britain, the majority of hem supported ‘Jimmy’ Mancham and colonial status against René ‘The Red’ and independence.

Each of these parties published a weekly broadsheet, dedicated – for the most part – to delivering broadsides at the other. The organ of the SDP was The Seychelles Weekly (‘An independent weekly’) and that of the SPUP was The People (‘Fearless in dignity’). Random selections from each will amply illustrate the weekly diet.

Let’s take first The Seychelles Weekly, in particular the addition of 30 July 1966. That contained the following story, in all its mordant glory:

Mice of the same hole and the dreaming editor.

Rene’s flourishing transport business – and he has a profit-making contract with the tea company, Philibert’s recent take over of the American-patronised Marie’s Bar, Roselie’s miraculous ability to save enough for a new house when others are only subsisting all clearly establish that the SPUP leaders and those people in the Haves who have been criticised are indeed mice of the same hole – when they do not meet when going in, they meet when going out

Most of these emerging businessmen from the SPUP stronghold have used politics as an introduction into the world of business. The only virtuous one who has used business to get into politics is Rifred Jumeau, who has acquired fame overnight for his brilliant ‘editing’ of The People. Owning about 6 taxis and 1 general goods store at Mont Fleury was not enough for the Minister-minded editor. With the brain of Harry Payet behind him, he floated a party called SIUP, which did not last very long. When Payet proved too clever for him, SIUP became became a soup and Jumeaualigned himself to the independence-seeking SPUP. What has he got out of this? Certainly a lot of self respect because the whole Seychelles knows he is a first class editor who spends his evenings writing articles for his paper and then sleeps dreaming about the day when the editor is a Minister. But age is advancing and the Ministership is still out of sight.

Not content with this, The Seychelles Weekly went on to inform its readers that “There is more indication of friction among the leaders of the SPUP: Simon believes he is more important than Roselie – though the Seychellois as a whole find Roselie more cultured. Philibert Loizeau is busy pocketing good money at Marie’s bar – Result: The “People” is no more appearing on Mondays!! And there is widespread dissatisfaction among the dwindling SPUP following. At Progress House (Headquarters of the SDP.) Secret Agent describes the moral [sic] of the SPUP leadership as as being ‘very low’!

Not that the Seychelles Weekly was all charge and counter-charge: It occasionally took time off to proffer praise, even if it was to itself:-

PRAISE: OF THE SEYCHELLES WEEKLY: “On behalf of my colleagues ‘The J.E.S.U’, I wish to congratulate your esteemed paper which has just appeared in the light of our little Island. Sight in the darkness we beseech thee”. Signed: H F Rosalie, 12 Oct. 1963

The People – of René’s SPUP – also knew how to dish it out. The following two articles are typical of its amusing outpourings:-

WHY WAS SPUP OFFICIALS PROSECUTED? The Seychelles People’s United Party won the election in Praslin and La Digue, to the great disappointment of many people. In view of certain allegations that some persons we re being registered without proper qualifications, instructions were given to the SPUP registering officer to number all forms handed in for registration. Every care was taken to ensure that SPUP did everything above board. In fact, everything was done in strict conformity with the law.

Yet Mr Morley Green, representative of the SPUP in Praslin, was prosecuted on fabricated evidence. Yet Mr Philibert Loizeau, an executive member of SPUP was prosecuted. In spite of the fact that all precautions were taken, SPUP, was prosecuted. We hope those concerned will note well that we say “SPUP was prosecuted”. We say so because we think that the attack was not against any particular individual but against our movement, our Party, our aims.

We have been accused. We now accuse. We accuse the authorities for not carrying out thorough investigations to determine whether these cases were not framed. We accuse certain persons in Praslin who have not spared any effort to frame cases against SPUP. We accuse those who were not satisfied that action should be taken against the Democratic Party alone but wanted by all means to include SPUP.

We are grateful to those people who stood by their sense of justice. We are glad that justice will always prevail in the end. Justice has not been defeated by the evil deeds of a few evil men. All charges laid against Philibert Loizeau were discharged and the case against Morley Green ended in an acquittal – the dirty plots of a few frightened individuals have collapsed.

SPUP will now go on working for the people of the Seychelles. Philibert Loizeau will carry on working for the people, watching for the next move from those who want to “get him”. Morley Green, who is busy organising the Praslin branch of the Party, will be free to proceed with the work he has started, He too will keep his eyes wide open, knowing that someone, somewhere wants to skin him. Corruption has made SPUP officials stand still for a few days, has forced them to spend in self-defence, but at the same time it will now make them work harder in an effort to eradicate sooner corruption from our society.

SPUP RALLY

On Sunday, 13th February 1966, 5,000 people came from all over Seychelles to make one call to the British Government. “We want immediate constitutional changes” the huge crowd shouted. “We want change.” “We shall walk hand in hand!“

The meeting was addressed by Mr F A René, President of the Seychelles Peoples United Party, Mr H.F. Rosalie, General Secretary of the Seychelles Transport and General Workers Union, Mr Aziz Hadee, Treasurer of SPUP, Mr Philibert Loizeau, Executive Committee Member of SPUP, Mr Alfred Jumeau, Treasurer of the Seychelles Transport and General Workers Union.

Mr H F Rosalie spoke about his former close relationship with Mr David Joubert, Secretary of the Democratic Party. He told the people of the pressure exerted on him by that gentleman and by James Mancham, the President of the Democratic Party. He related various conversations he had with these gentlemen and their many attempts to buy him. The General Secretary of the SPUP then emphatically denied all allegations that he did not support SPUP. “I will always support Mr René and his party”, he affirmed.

The next speaker of Mr Aziz Hadee [sic]. He explained very clearly to his audience the necessity for the country to look for new crops to replace the coconut in places where the plantation of coconuts was uneconomic, He spoke in great zest about the possibility of more extensive tea development stating that tea gave a return per acre of nearly 10 times more than coconuts. Mr Hadee then brought out the many discriminations that were embodied in our laws. “The poor man”, he said, “was not allowed to carry more than one bottle of toddy whereas the rich man could take dozens of bottles of whisky or wine anywhere he liked”.

Following Mr Hadee, Mr Philibert Loizeau warned the people to be careful of the evil tactics of people like Mancham, Joubert and Stravens. They will lie about anything in an effort to mislead the people. Mr Loizeau gave various examples of such vicious propaganda.

Mr Rifred Jumeau, who spoke next, explained to the crowd the way the British Colonial office officials here used Seychellois as scapegoats. Speaking of Mr Leslie Westergreen, Mr Jumeau said “He is not as bad as people think. He is required, however, to put into execution nasty decisions in order that Seychellois may be hesitant about being governed by their own countrymen. Mr Rifred Jumeau pointed out that he is never scared of going to prison and that he will never hesitate to speak the truth.

Mr Guy Simon then spoke generally about the need for Seychellois to work together. He wondered what some people meant when they said “We don’t want”. “You don’t want what?” asked the SPUP President. “You don’t want better clothes? You don’t want better houses’? You don’t want more money? You don’t want better education for your children!”. All these people do is to repeat what Mancham tells them, not realising that Mancham has a reason not to want. He already has.

Mr F A René, President of the Seychelles People’s United Party, then finished the meeting and called on the people to unite. The meeting ended in wide applause.

But political rallies weren’t always as peaceful and uneventful as the second piece from The People would have us believe. This final extract from the Seychelles Weekly clearly illustrates this:-

SDP MEETING CAUSED SPUP OFFICIALS TO FIGHT AMONGST THEMSELVES

The Seychelles Democratic Party held its final meeting of the year in a jubilant and dignified mood at Gordon Square last Sunday. Hundreds of people crowded the field to hear the President of the Party and the General Secretary speak

of the many varied achievements of the Party, of its future policy and its determination to oppose as always the power-at-all-cost thirst of the SPUP leaders.

Surrounded by such Arch Supporters as Mr Nicholson Stravens of Pointe Larue, Mr Norman Mancienne of Glacis, Mr Davidson Chang Him of Bel Ombre, Mr Ange Cadeau of Plaisance, Mrs Daisy Benoiton of English River, Mr Uranus Bibi of Victoria Market, Mr Philip Jumeau of Rochon, Mr Joseph Max of Benezet Street, Mr Leonnel Luch of Pointe Conan, Mr Antoine Samson of des Camells, Mr Francis Mein of St. Louis, Mr Eugene Marie of Roche Bois and many other local personalities, Messrs Mancham and Joubert had the crowd with them, for them and in love with them.

This was too much for Africa-trained politician Philibert Loizeau who kept on interrupting the meeting with jungle-type audacity. Whereupon a lady spectator remarked: “La verité y offense son maitre”.This was too much for Loizeau who threatened to slap the woman. This, of course, was poor political diplomacy for it caused many to remark – If already he behaving like this, what won’t he do, given power, after Independence?

Rifred Jumeau – with an air of gentleman-ship seldom seen in the past – then came towards Loizeau and dragged him away. But the latter was not to behave. A few minutes later he emerged on the other side of the field – just a few yards from blushing René – determined to carry on with his cheap political monkey tricks of interrupting the truth. René called him aside and spoke to him but Loizeau showed no sign of discipline.

While the SDUP leadership was quarrelling amongst itself, SDP leaders demonstrated for all to see that theirs was the party – the only party – which could bring Seychelles into an era of progress and prosperity amidst peace. The people have realised the difference in calibre between the two parties and from now on the democrats will ride the waves towards the horizon of victory.

And so it went on, week in week out.

At the legislative level, things were little better. As a Crown Colony, the Seychelles were subordinate to Westminster and lacked a sovereign parliament. What it did have was the Legislative Council, known affectionately by all as the LegCo. This august body sat regularly in the assembly hall of the Seychelles College and had 13 members. Six of these were elected and 6 were government nominees, sitting there ex officio. Last but not least was the Governor, who rarely said anything but occasionally made use of his casting vote.

The only trouble with this set up, of course, was that nothing the Secretariat opposed could possibly get passed, unless the 6 selected members were unanimous in their opinions and one or more of the 6 government members was prepared to lose his job. If the voting was 6 to 6, the Governor could always be relied on to cast their vote in favour of the Government. After all, that’s what they were there for.

Of all the LegCo assemblies I attended, only one sticks clearly in my memory. Shortly before Christmas 1965 the Council debated the following motion: That Government request the Colonial office to establish without due delay an adequate number of Birth Control Clinics relevant to the population explosion in Seychelles. Since the birth rate in Seychelles at that time was over 40 per thousand, compared with Britain’s 15, this was a serious attempt at social reform.

Unfortunately, the voting was 6 to 6 and the Governor declined to cast his vote. In a country with 95% of its population Roman Catholic, this motion was dynamite.

Outstanding among the opponents of the motion was Mrs Delhomme, the only woman member of the Council, a Roman Catholic and the wife of the French Vice-Consul. In a very long and passionate speech, she scorned the motion and its proponents. To establish birth control clinics would be to hamstring future development in the islands. Look at China, she urged, a great nation with a population of 750 million. Therein lay a country’s greatness. Long live Seychellois breeding habits: All strength to their elbows, etc. On with the population explosion and the Devil take the hindmost.

The only other political event of note was the General Strike called by René in June 1966 and featured in some English dailies. In Moscow, it was broadcast on the radio that 35,000 workers were on strike in the Seychelles – a neat trick with a population of only 45,000.

The strike lasted a week and was not without violence.

Someone placed a bomb beneath Progress House, HQ of the SDP, but, as an afterthought, covered it with sandbags.

Someone else set-fire to the Public Health Nurses Office and caused extensive blackening, of one threshold.

And, for the entire week, hundreds of workers sat or lay on the grass outside René’s headquarters and menaced those passing by.

It was all a bit too extreme for the Colonial Office and, when the strike was in its 5th day, a British destroyer steamed into Victoria harbour and disgorged a complement of fierce marines, complete with rifles. To the sound of the ships band, they marched, in impressive array, to the police barracks thought they were not seen again until they marched back to the ship and sailed off again.

Buthe display had the desired effect and the strike petered out. While it lasted, it had been interesting and often amusing but the British expats had been sufficiently alarmed to sleep with machetes and loaded spear-guns close to hand.

And Paddy Taylor had thanked God that he’d forced the authorities to allow him to bring in his rifles.

Postscripts:-

1. The frenetic politics of the Seychelles rarely involved us volunteers, though on one occasion Mr René’s “People” printed a story carrying the comment that the ‘Volunteer workers, most of them just out of high school’ received an average pay of Rs1000 per month(£75). Since we were actually paid £6 a month, I went to have a chat with Mr René and a retraction duly followed.

2. A brief account of key political events:-

• 1965: Britain agreed to universal suffrage and established an enlarged legislative council
• 1967: General elections , followed by the setting up of an elected Legislative Assembly and a Council of Ministers
• 1974: In the general elections, both parties campaigned for independence, with James Mancham’s SDP winning a majority.
• 1976: Seychelles gained independence. with Mancham as President and René as Prime Minister
• 1977: While Mancham was abroad, supporters of René staged a bloodless coup, installing himself as Prime Minister. He suspended the constitution and dismissed the parliament
• 1979: René established a one-party socialist state under the Seychelles People’s Progressive Front (SPPF)
• 1980s: There were a series of coup attempts against René, some of which were supported by South Africa.
• 1981, A team of 43 South African mercenaries masquerading as holidaying rugby players attempted a coup d état. After a gun battle at the airport, most of the mercenaries escaped in a hijacked plane
• 1991: After 12 years, a return to the multi-party System
• 1993: Adoption of a new Constitution, institutionalizing multi-party politics. Mancham returned from exile and revived his SDP party but René won multiple elections under the new system
• 2004: René handed power to his vice-president, James Michel, who won elections in 2006 and 2011
• 2016: Michel resigned and Danny Faure became President
• 2020: An Anglican priest, defeated Faure in the general elections

More can be found in Wiki here.