5 July 2024

Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts
the stars to flight.
And, lo, has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light!

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable – Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain’

Cosas de España/Galicia

Spain’s ‘war” on Airbnb continues – especially in Malaga – says the Olive Press here.

Here’s the latest tourism stats. Overall, the activities of the anti-tourist movement don’t seem to be having much effect yet, despite the best efforts of the egregious British tabloids to darken Spain’s reputation. That said, the increase in numbers from the UK was below those of France and Germany, for example. And well below the average.

Here in Pv city, tourism 20 years ago was exclusively Spanish. When, as I’ve said, no waiter or waitress or receptionist spoke English. Now they all do, and foreigners are present in ever more numbers. And not just in the traditional Spanish months of July and August but – taking the risk of unwanted rain – from May through to October. The massive increase in Camino ‘pilgrims’ and the drastic change in the profile of these has obviously been a factor in this. As yet, though, there’s no evidence of complaints from the residents of Pv city. In contrast, things have reached a tipping point in Santiago de Compostela, where a group called Compostela Resiste was set up an Instagram page last year. It wouldn’t surprise me to see something similar in Pv city within 5 years. Possibly led by someone fed up with the guided groups of up to 50 people clogging the narrow streets of the old quarter and contributing to noise pollution via the miked voice of the guides. Some of whom, this year for the first time, spout their spiel in English.

Talking of an excess of tourists . . . For those interested, Pamplona’s bull-runs start on Sunday.

Good to see that the right team won the Spain-Germany match this evening. Though there was some questionable play-acting on the part of the Spanish players. Hard to believe neither of these excellent teams was expected to beat England. Who haven’t really beaten anyone yet. And aren’t expected to do so tomorrow, against Switzerland. But it’s a funny game, football . .

The UK

In 2019, the Labour party suffered its worst-ever defeat. Just 5 years later, it’s achieved its best-ever results, in yesterday’s much-expected landslide. This is surely a form of electorate madness. I expect quite a lot of ‘buyer-remorse’ over the next 5 years. And I wouldn’t rule out the party losing a lot of its newly acquired parliamentary seats in 2029 – when it dawns on the fickle voters that Labour hasn’t actually solved many – if any – of the country’s serious problems. Having yesterday predicted a hung parliament in 2029, I guess I have to say that, to be consistent.

The turnout was very low for a general election, with a lot of disgruntled voters – mostly Conservative, I’m sure – staying home. And many others of that unhappy group lending their votes to the new Reform party.

All in all, a bizarre development. And totally in contrast to the rightwards-moving EU. Not natural bedfellows. As ever.

Some nice articles, from professional columnists:-

One wonders how this (good) result will be seen in Cataluña.

Even better news . . .

The EU

After years of laughing at us, our European neighbours are descending into political turmoil. Suddenly Britain seems like the sensible one. Well, maybe.

The USA

Not before time . . . The Democrat revolt against Biden takes shape.

English

Cabal: A group of people who are united in some close design, usually to promote their private views or interests in an ideology, a state, or another community, often by intrigue and usually without the knowledge of those who are outside their group. But . . . There’s a theory that the term took on its present meaning from a group of ministers formed in 1668 – the “Cabal ministry” of Charles II of England. This included Sir Thomas Clifford, Lord Arlington, The Duke of Buckingham, Lord Ashely ad Lord Lauderdale, whose initial letters spelled CABAL, and who were the signatories of the public Treaty of Dover that allied [Protestant]England to [Catholic]France in a prospective war against the [Protestant]Netherlands. This theory is a folk etymology, although the coincidence was noted at the time and could possibly have popularized its use.

Spanish

‘Pressing’ is the word of the moment in English football and the national team is said to be bad at it. Does anyone know what it is in Spanish? I heard precipitar in the first half of the Spain=Germany match but am not at all sure this is it. Perhaps insistir. Or presionar, even.

Did you know?

71% of the world’s population lives in autocracies – up from 48% just 10 years ago. Not a good trend.

Finally . .

The good news is that I finally got RTVE to give me live pictures of a Euros match. The bad news is that the (excitable) Spanish commentators are as awful as ever. ‘Radio with pictures’ as some wag described it more than 20 years ago. “A passes it to B, who passes it to C, who crosses it to D, etc.”.

After jet-spraying a terrace yesterday, I did the pavement in front of my house this morning. Not sure why I bothered. It’s now dirty grey, as opposed to the normal post-winter black.

Finally, Finally . . . Pseuds Corner

Chenin at its ragged, rugged, sonorous, glorious best. Like a sculpture that the sculptor left halfway finished because s/he didn’t have the words and the rock from which it was hewn did. Like honey on quarried marble; like a tablespoon of crême brulée followed by a cool breath of thyme. Custard apples. Silk and sand. A reviewer of some wine

The Usual Links . . .

  • You can get my posts by email as soon as they’re published. With the added bonus that they’ll contain the typos I’ll discover later. I believe there’s a box for this at the bottom of each post. I guess it’s logical that this doesn’t appear on the version given to me . . .
  • For new readers: If you’ve landed here looking for info on Galicia or Pontevedra, try here. If you’re passing through Pontevedra on the Camino, you’ll find a guide to the city there.
  • For those thinking of moving to Spain:This is an extremely comprehensive and accurate guide to the challenge, written by a Brit who lives in both the North and the South and who’s very involved in helping Camino walkers. And this is something on the so-called Beckham Rule, which is beneficial – tax-wise – for folk who want to work here. Finally, some advice on getting a mortgage.

3 comments

  1. I have cycled from London to Brighton four times. That was in the 80s & 90s. The route climbs over Ditchling Beacon, but before I could tackle the hill, I would fortify myself with a couple of glasses of cold white wine from Black Dog Hill Vineyard. https://blackdoghillvineyard.com/

    I mention this in view of the FT article. Other vineyards close by are https://www.ridgeview.co.uk/ & Ditchling Vineyard at https://www.plumpton.ac.uk/ English wines are nothing new. I was growing Léon Millot vines in Hertford in 1976 & producing an “OK” red for fun.

    My bicycle had close ratio gears for racing on the flat. Ditchling Beacon required Granny puller gears, so it soon became necessary to dismount & walk up. A delightful view at the top & all downhill into Brighton. Return journey was by train.

    https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@50.905209,-0.1113581,3a,75y,62.19h,87.67t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sVmFVv76–bhXcn0vZtxsOw!2e0!7i16384!8i8192?coh=205409&entry=ttu

    Wearily,

    Perry

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