Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts the stars to flight.

And, lo, has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light!

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable: Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain’

Cosas de España

Water

• The VdG today: Valencian water: Barcelona is dry, but to satisfy itself it is not exactly waiting for the popular Valencian cocktail, but for the water from its desalination plants, which will be transported in tanker ships. That is the solution that the central and Catalan governments have agreed to temporarily alleviate the lack of water that Catalonia will foreseeably suffer in summer. There are other measures, but these are long-term: the State will build two desalination plants on the Catalan coast. They will be operational within 4 years.
• Lenox Napier on problems and solutions in the NE.

Below is my filleted version of an FT article on events in Madrid during 2024, on a month-by-month bases. It’s a labour of love, so I hope at least one person benefits from it. I probably won’t be attending any before June, sadly. Note: I can’t guarantee that links therein will work. And apologies for the changing font but there’s nowt I can do about this

The UK

The Brits are about to become even more revolting, claims this (always controversial) columnist.

The EU

Someone claims to know why all those farmers are furious. They say their livelihoods are being sacrificed on the altars of free trade and climate change. 

Germany

Hitler’s speeches to be put online to show the power of propaganda. Researchers will collect and analyse all of the Nazi dictator’s speeches delivered between 1933 and 1945.

Russia

Putin is set to keep the anti-Putin upstart off the presidential election ballot

Iran

Here’s more fotos, I hope, of the Lotfallah mosque in Isfahan – doing a bit more justice to the place.

Quotes of the Day

Dover now has more pilgrims than Rome – an amusing but possibly OTT reference to the number of illegal Muslim immigrants that convert to Christianity on arrival, to assist with their asylum claim.

Social Media

Social media is killing our children. We are cowards not to ban it. Children are not safe on the web and we must protect them . . . How many more bereaved parents on our front pages will it take before we’re honest about the dangers of social media and brave enough to hold both Big Tech and ourselves to account?  Because beneath the layers of cowardice and denial, I think we all know that the evils of phones and social media are boundless. Parents are losing children because of their influence, yet still we’re only just scratching the surface. An extreme view? I think not,

The Way of the World

The turning of the tide that some of us predicted was inevitable, given time. Here and here.

The Valentine’s Day merchandising bonanza this year includes cards from cats, cards from dogs, cards even from “the baby bump”.

Rather more seriously . . . Is there a distinction between Islam and Islamism?

English

How the language is slaughtered. Usually by (North) American marketeers . . . A sign in a department store giving instructions for the donating of unwanted clothes has as its first line: 1. Put 5 items of previously loved clothes in this bin. . . . If you’re going to get into such nonsense, why not go the whole hog and write: Put 5 items of previously loved but now hated items in this bin. Or would that need a trigger warning, in case reality upsets some snowflake?

Finally . . .

Good to know . . . Curb Your Enthusiasm: we need Larry David’s curmudgeon more than ever.

The Usual Links . . .

You can get my posts by email as soon as they’re published. With the added bonus that they’ll contain the typos I’ll discover later. I believe there’s a box for this at the bottom of each post. I guess it’s logical that this doesn’t appear on the version given to me . . .

For new readers:– If you’ve landed here looking for info on Galicia or Pontevedra, try here. If you’re passing through Pontevedra on the Camino, you’ll find a guide to the city there – updated a bit in early July 2023.

For those thinking of moving to Spain:- This is an extremely comprehensive and accurate guide to the challenge, written by a Brit who lives in both the North and the South and who’s very involved in helping Camino walkers.

MADRID 2024

Below is a curated, month-by-month guide to some of the best events on offer in the Spanish capital this year, spanning art exhibitions, opera, sport and festivals. This is by no means an exhaustive list.

February

Art ‘On the Reverse’, Museo del Prado This exhibition explores the “B-side of pictorial support”, turning major artworks around. Visitors will see famous paintings from the other side: the backs of canvases, or even two-sided paintings, encouraging them to appreciate the works beyond their fronts. The show features art from the Prado’s own collection as well as loans from around the world, including appearances from Bronzino and Van Gogh. Until March 3

‘Picasso 1906: The Turning Point’, Museo Reina Sofía The exhibition seeks to showcase Picasso’s contribution to what we now know as “modern art”, and the year 1906 as a pivotal period in his aesthetic development. At the age of 25, the artist was moving away from his rose period, but had not yet embarked on Cubist classics such as “Les Demoiselles d’Avignon”. Until March 4

‘Monet. Obras Maestras del Musée Marmottan Monet, París’ (Monet: Masterpieces from the Marmottan Monet Museum, Paris), CentroCentro A showcase of more than 50 masterpieces by Claude Monet, on loan from the Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris. The works span the artist’s career, including those he considered “his and his alone”, which were kept hidden away in his home until after his death. Until February 25;

‘Isabel Quintanilla’s Intimate Realism’, Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza The museum’s first retrospective dedicated to a female Spanish artist displays 100 works spanning the career of Isabel Quintanilla, a key player in the contemporary realism movement. February 27 to June 2;

Performance ‘La casa de Bernarda Alba’ (The House of Bernarda Alba), Teatro María Guerrero
This grand, classical theatre is putting on Lorca’s final play. Repression, family and an exploration of sexism take centre stage under Alfredo Sanzol’s direction. February 9 to March 31

‘Afanador’ by the Ballet Nacional de España, Teatro Real Spain’s national ballet company premieres a flamenco show built around the aesthetic of Ruvén Afanador’s high-contrast, body-centric photography. February 9 to 11;

Events

Carnival Madrid 2024 Festivities hit town in February, with huge parades and some enthusiastically eccentric costumes spotted across the city. Highlights include the symbolic Burial of the Sardine (famously captured by Goya) on February 14 and the Masquerade Ball at the Círculo de Bellas Artes on the 18th. February 10 to 14; Masquerade Ball, February 18; further information here

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid This showcase for the Spanish fashion industry takes over showrooms, catwalks, and venues across the city, including the IFEMA Madrid, with five days full of shows, interviews and livestreams. February 15 to 19; further information and tickets here

March

ARCOmadrid, IFEMA Madrid The international contemporary art fair celebrates its 43rd edition in 2024, and aims to unite “past and future through galleries and their essential relationship with artists and collectors”. This year’s programme is titled ‘The Shore, the Tide, the Current: An Oceanic Caribbean’, and there are subsections dedicated to Latin American art. March 6 to 10

Performance ‘Carmen’, Teatro Real Bizet’s masterpiece comes to one of Europe’s most prestigious opera houses for one night only. The French mezzo-soprano Gaëlle Arquez is the titular heroine; Belgian conductor René Jacobs leads the B-Rock Orchestra. March 27

Event Semana Santa (Holy Week) Holy Week means music, traditional costumes and processions aplenty in Madrid’s streets. The latter begin on the Friday before Palm Sunday and continue until Easter Sunday, and are accompanied by classical music concerts across the city, including organ recitals in the church of San Ginés. Find torrijas (cinnamon-flavoured fried bread) on tables across Madrid; bite-sized pieces of battered cod (soldaditos de pavía) are also traditional. March 24 to 31, date of San Ginés concert TBA

April

Sport Mutua Madrid Open, Caja Mágica The clay courts of Caja Mágica will be buzzing this April for the return of the city’s major tennis tournament. Spanish wunderkind Carlos Alcaraz took home the trophy last year, exclaiming “Madrid is everything to me” post-match. April 22 to May 5

Performance ‘Los Guapos’ (The Handsome Ones) and ‘Brief History of the Spanish Railway’, Teatro María Guerrero Oscar-nominated David Trueba stages his own play Los Guapos, which traces a tale of rediscovery — of a former lover, and a former life. And with Madrid director Beatriz Jaén at the helm, Brief History of the Spanish Railway is a dive into the origins of capitalism in Spain and its ties to the country’s royal family — all through the lens of the evolution of the rail network. “Los Guapos”, April 24 to June 9; further information and tickets here. “Brief History of the Spanish Railway”, April 25 to May 26

‘Die Meistersinger von Nürnberg’, Teatro Real The return of Wagner’s comic opera, two decades after its last performance here. Conductor Pablo Heras-Casado has led multiple Wagners at El Real; the cast includes Canadian bass-baritone Gerald Finley and South Korean bass Jongmin Park. April 24 to May 25

May

Art PHotoESPAÑA 2024 The annual photography festival begins its four-month run in May, taking over a plethora of Madrid’s museums, art spaces and galleries. The permanent headquarters are at the PHE Gallery, where you can see some of the best the show has to offer. May to September

‘Arte y Transformaciones Sociales en España: 1885-1910’ (Art and Social Transformation in Spain: 1885—1910), Prado The Prado’s summer exhibition explores Spain’s turbulent political climate in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Expect to see Sorolla aplenty. May 21 to September 22

Sport World Rugby Seven Series (Grand Final) The international tournament will culminate in Madrid, with the Grand Final weekend marking the zenith. Head to the Civitas Metropolitano Stadium to watch. May 31 to June 2; further information and tickets here

Festivals Flamenco Madrid Festival Look forward to a month of shows, music, exhibitions and talks celebrating the Unesco-protected art form. The main venue is the Fernán Gómez cultural centre, but locations across the capital are hosting events. There are even masterclasses if you fancy having a stab at your own “¡Olé!”. Throughout May;

Fiesta del 2 de mayo (Festival of May 2) An important day in Madrid marking the city’s uprising against the occupying French in 1808, beginning the war of Spanish independence. Find music, food, and celebrations across the city, particularly in the Malasaña neighbourhood, which is named after Manuela Malasaña, a May 2 martyr who was executed by French troops. May 2

San Isidro Day
The Spanish capital honours its patron saint like only Madrileños could. During the week running up to the saint’s day (May 15), you can find locals dressed in traditional costumes dancing the traditional chotis, and punters drinking limonada (wine, lemon, sugar and chopped fruit) and eating rosquillas (doughnuts). Head to the Parque de San Isidro to soak up the atmosphere. May 6 to 15;

June

Art ‘Machinations’, Museo Reina Sofia Sofia Built around the theories of philosopher Gilles Deleuze and psychoanalyst Félix Guattari, Machinations delves into the the shifting notion of “the machine”. Artists featured include Georges Adéagbo and Efrén Álvarez. June 21 to August 28;

‘The De-centred Gaze: Art and Colonialism in the Thyssen Collections’, Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza Aiming to deconstruct and discuss colonial histories, the museum invites us to decipher the legacy of imperialism within selected works from its collections. June 25 to October 20;

Performance ‘Doña Francisquita’, Teatro de la Zarzuela The arrival of Amadeo Vives’s classic 1923 zarzuela (Spanish operetta with musical passages interspersed with spoken dialogue) at the grand Teatro de la Zarzuela is highly anticipated. From June 19 until 30

Music Noches del Botánico, Madrid Complutense University The university opens its botanic gardens for after-dark entertainment in the summer. Noches del Botánico 2024 includes performances from a wide range of bands, singers and genres, including PJ Harvey, James Blake, Take That, Queens of the Stone Age, Toto and James Blunt, as well as Spanish indie-pop artist Mikel Izal. June 7 to July 27

Event Feria del Libro de Madrid, El Retiro Park An alfresco book fair over the first half of June. From activities, forums, food and, naturally, books galore, this is a top choice or adults and children alike. May 31 to June 16

July

Performance ‘Madama Butterfly’, Teatro Real Puccini’s classic comes to Madrid this summer, under the baton of Damiano Michieletto. June 30 to July 22

Festivals Mad Cool Festival, Iberdrola Music This eclectic four-day music festival returns with a line-up including Dua Lipa, Pearl Jam, Janelle Monáe, The Breeders, Arlo Parks and Sleaford Mods, as well as numerous other pop, rock and indie acts. July 10 to 13

Veranos de la Villa festival The annual two-month programme begins in July, with cultural events and activities across the city, including dance, exhibitions, concerts, theatre — and even circus. This year marks the festival’s 40th edition and is due to be packed with events at venues all over Madrid. July and August; further information here

August

Festivals In August, much of the city scarpers, fleeing the heat for the coast. But hardcore locals can be found hopping from festival to festival, with three districts celebrating important traditions this month. The string of fiestas begins with San Cayetano in the Rastro/Embajadores area, followed by San Lorenzo in the Lavapiés neighbourhood and ending with La Paloma around La Latina. The fun includes dancing, singing, games, processions, food trucks and tapas routes. San Cayetano is celebrated on August 7, San Lorenzo on August 10, and La Paloma on August 15, but festivities tend to run either side of the day itself

September

Architecture Week 2024 Seven days of exhibitions, open buildings, conferences and more. Espacio COAM is an important hub during the festival. Specific dates to be confirmed

Sport Vuelta a España The world’s best cyclists will be braving the Spanish sun as the grand tour returns. The final stage ends with a sprint time trial through Madrid. September 8

Acciona Open de España The golf tournament returns to the Club de Campo Villa de Madrid this September as part of the European Tour. Last year’s event was won by Matthieu Pavon. September 26 to 29

Event Vogue’s Fashion Night Out While this year’s dates have not yet been announced, the event usually takes place in September in Madrid. Enjoy an evening where fashion shops stay open until late with special discounts on offer — alongside a party at Casa Vogue featuring live performances. Date to be confirmed

October

Music JAZZMADRID24 More than 70 concerts and 200 events across the city featuring major jazz artists. October and November (dates to be confirmed)

Festival Tapapiés After a roaring success in 2023, Tapapiés (the Lavapiés neighbourhood’s annual tapas festival) should be returning this October. The event spotlights tapas from Spain and beyond at delightful prices — think €3 for a tapa and beer. Dates to be confirmed

November

Art ‘Gabriele Münter: The Great Expressionist Woman Painter’, Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza. Discover more than 100 of the works of one of the most influential figures of German Expressionism. November 12 to February 9 2025

Sport IFEMA Madrid Horse Week Heralded as the “most important equestrian show in Spain”, with everything from dressage to show jumping. And it’s not just about the horses: the “village” takes over the IFEMA exhibition complex, with fashion, food, and jewellery stands and VIP hospitality experiences. Dates to be confirmed

Festival Madrid Autumn Festival. This annual event will be turning 42 this November. It’s widely regarded as the most important performing-arts festival in the country; last year featured productions by 38 companies from 12 countries, with numerous premieres. Dates to be confirmed

Event Madrid Hotel Week This festival is a toast to the importance of the hotel industry in Madrid, and a celebration of everything that it has to offer. The week is usually around November, with activities at hotels across the city, including everything from food to cocktails, sport and wellbeing to music, art, fashion and tech. Dates to be confirmed

December

Holidays Día de la Constitución On December 6 1978, the Spanish people voted by a huge majority for a democratic constitution. To mark the anniversary, the national parliament holds open door days every year. December 6; further information here soon

Christmas and New Year Christmas lights and markets fill the streets of Madrid in December, with festive celebrations everywhere. On New Year’s Eve, thousands gather at the Puerta del Sol to honour the Spanish tradition of eating 12 grapes during the new year countdown. The hope is that each grape will secure good fortune for each month of the upcoming year.