Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts the stars to flight.

And, lo, has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light!

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable: Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain’

Cosas de España/Galicia

On a positive note . . .

• 10 fun facts about Spain that set it apart.
• Spain’s magnificent royal palaces.

On a less postive note . . . It’s reported that Spain’s emblematic training ship – the Juan Sebastián de Elcano – has been used for bringing cocaine from . . . well, you know where.

‘Surge pricing’ is charging more at peak times, eg by airlines and hotels. It’s said that restaurants have started to do this, combining higher prices with poorer service. Here in Spain, the national rail operator, Renfe, seems to have taken it up with a vengeance. Especially on routes – eg Madrid to Galicia – where they face no competition. When I go to Madrid now, I avoid Thursday, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. And possibly Monday. A narrow window, then.

Talking of restaurants . . . In her latest blog post, María reported that some in Santiago de Compostela are now imposing time-limited ‘turns’ on clients. Which she says, rightly, goes against local norms and traditions. I mentioned this a while ago as something a few Pv city restaurants had started to do and which rather conflicts with the Spanish habit of turning up late for a ‘reserva’. And I wondered if this cultural change would lead to another one – earlier opening times, in order to allow turns of more than 90 minutes. Well, no sign of that yet, I fear. So, higher prices and less time at the table.

The retail giant Zara is moving into 2nd-hand and ‘repaired’ clothes. This follows the emergence – say 10 years ago – of retail outlets with names like Vintage. When I came here in 2000, I felt that the Spanish attitude was one of all countries that not so long ago had been less rich – no one would be seen dead wearing 2nd hand clothes or buying used furniture, in case they were thought poor. But Spain is a lot richer now than in the 60s and 70s and attitudes have apparently changed significantly.

This is very unlikely to ever happen in Galicia, where most folk turn up their nose at anything pìcante.

Most positive news of the week – Pv FC now head their league. But, in contrast, Celta Vigo languish at the bottom of theirs, under the guidance of that serial failure, Rafael Benitez. Who’s probably too rich to be worried about yet another dismissal.

Portugal

Says The Times: Spain and Portugal’s relationship is a complicated affair. They often live, as they say, “with our backs turned against each other”, pretending their neighbour does not exist. The froideur has led to a mutual ignorance that at times obscures their shared history and culture, academics say. In a rare moment of co-operation, however, the countries have united to back a landmark exhibition showing their artistic influences over each other.

The UK

Quite a cruel cartoon . . .

The EU

How Britain and Germany gave France a reality check on EV tariffs. The Relaxation of negotiated Brexit trade terms marks a setback for Paris. All good clean post-Brexit fun. With economics taking over from politics. As it always does. And as it will with Net Zero.

Germany

Young Germans are said to be the unhappiest in Europe. A tad hard to believe.

Quote of the Day

Guinness looks like a delicious chocolate milkshake but tastes like angry black dad-soup. Well, it does to me anyway.

English

The Cambridge University Press sees rizz as the world of 2023. Click here for its meaning and origin. Like rhythm and swing, you’ve either got it or you haven’t.

Did you know? . . .

Jon Rahm is a Spanish golfer and one of the best in the world. He’s extremely popular in Europe. Or at least was. His ‘signing of a Faustian pact’ – involving a mighty ‘reverse ferret’ – might well have done for his popularity.

Finally . . .

Nougat has come a very long way since it was invented in the Middle East hundreds of years ago. I personally prefer the brittle pistachio-nougat combination I used to get in Iran but I have enjoyed – even gorged myself on – some of the softer Spanish versions of turrón, as nougat is called here. But I think I’ll pass on the latest versions, based on Chupa-Chups, jamón and ‘donuts’. Though not all in one confection, I guess.

The Usual Links . . .

For new readers:– If you’ve landed here looking for info on Galicia or Pontevedra, try here. If you’re passing through Pontevedra on the Camino, you’ll find a guide to the city there – updated a bit in early July 2023.

For those thinking of moving to Spain:- This is an extremely comprehensive and accurate guide to the challenge, written by a Brit who lives in both the North and the South and who’s very involved in helping Camino walkers.