Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts the stars to flight.

And, lo, has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light!

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable: Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain’

Cosas de España/Galicia

Politics: Brussels raps the ‘new’ PM on the knuckles. I guess it’s possible they’ve privately warned Sr Sánchez that the money tap might be turned off, if he doesn’t behave. And the EU parliament gets in on the act.

The VdG today on a democgraphic crisis affecting all of Spain: Last year, only one of Galicia’s 313 towns registered more births than deaths. Ames is the only Galician town to resist demographic decline, with a positive balance since 1991. Overall, Galicia was the region with the biggest negative demographic record, followed by Castilla y León and Andalucia. Small wonder, then, that boat people are bing brought to Sanxenxo. Someone needs to do the dirty jobs . . ,

A tad surprised to see Vigo coming up here . . . The dinoseto? . . . Stumped Bing but see here. Ashamed to say I’ve never heard the expression Costa de la Vela . . . But, then, neither has English Wiki. Though Spanish Wiki has this.

Portugal

Ahead of visiting Sintra today, we’re now on the Portuguese coast, in the charmingly blue-and-white town of Ericeira, The non-descript hotel I stayed in 6 years ago* is now a thoroughly refurbished ultra-modern place, with rooms – of course – at twice the previous price. For early birds like me, there’s the welcome touch of a capsule coffee machine in the breakfast room, so I don’t have to wait until 8 for a dose of caffeine. And the breakfast was, by far, the best we’ve had in 5 days of travelling.

*Back then Pedro O Pescador, now Praia FLH. A good option if you’re not a surfer wanting to stay in one of the numerous places offering cheap beds in dormitories. And not as expensive as its nearby sister hotel, Reserva.

An ironic sign? . . .

And one of the famous Manueline windows in the Tomar castle . .

Germany/The EU

Here’s the FT on the ‘burgeoning budget crisis in Berlin’. A classic case of unintended consequences, if ever there was one. Must be worrying for the rest of the EU members, as: The crisis has highlighted how the consequences of the debt rule risk destabilising the country’s entire budgetary system, with huge potential knock-on effects for the eurozone. One wonders what damage this has done to plans/intentions around the “fiscal union” essential, if the EU is to ever to become a true federal state, born of ‘ever closer’ union. About which I remain sceptical.

Am a bit surprised AEP hasn’t pronounced on this yet.

The Netherlands

More problems for the EU, with Wilders’ ‘far-right’ party getting the biggest number of seats in the next parliament. Will it still be frozen out of the next coalition government, as a pariah?

The UK

A museum has decided that a male Roman emperor was really a transwoman. And has revised all its information labels accordingly. It had to happen. Won’t be the last controversial announcement,

English

I wrote “if ever there was one.” above. This, of course, should be “if ever there were one.” But the subjunctive mood is dying out in English. Would that were so in Spanish. So, clearly not yet dead.

Did you know? . . .

Am surprised at the identity of the city ranked here as the world’s number one favourite. And to see Liverpool ranking higher than Valencia . . . All very questionable.

Finally . . .

The lovely Lara – whose 855 numbers actuallly come from Cambodia – sent me several messages yesterday – apparently from 2 different Spanish numbers – asking me repeatedly if I’d added her number to my phone. I imagine she’ll give up soon. Even if she is a bot.

Something from the rather lovely place where I spent an unforgettable year as a teacher when I was 18.
The Usual Links . . .

• For new readers:– If you’ve landed here looking for info on Galicia or Pontevedra, try here. If you’re passing through Pontevedra on the Camino, you’ll find a guide to the city there – updated a bit in early July 2023.
• For those thinking of moving to Spain:- This is an extremely comprehensive and accurate guide to the challenge, written by a Brit who lives in both the North and the South and who’s very involved in helping Camino walkers.