Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts the stars to flight.

And, lo, has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light!

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable: Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain’

Cosas de España/Galicia

Politics:-

• On the topical (and rather hot) subject of pardons again, I wrote a bit about the power to give these earlier this year. And there’s some notes below, from Bing.
• As reported on this site which came up in my Spain feed . . . For reasons best known to himself, the US right-wing commentator – Tucker Carlson – attended the recent demonstrations in Madrid, as the guest – of course – of the Vox leader. His presence on the street clearly brought brought out the best in one flag-draped harridan.

Talking about right-wing US commentators/bloggers . . . How about these for insightful comments on European affairs . . .

• The Spanish seem pretty upset about the actions taken by the Marxist government to stay in power.
• Poland is having similar uprisings now that a Marxist regime is attempting to take power.

Sad to say, very many North Americans confuse Social Democracy – which they themselves have to some degree – with Socialism. Which they then equate with Communism/Marxism. Is there any hope for the country??

I forgot to say yesterday that one of the caminos not shown in the Times diagram was the very first one, El Primitivo. I did some of this back in 2016 and wrote a couple of posts about it at the time. My comments are included below. I’m hoping this time they won’t upset (humourless?) ‘pilgrims’ who think they’re completely OTT.

I’m off to Portugal and then Madrid on Saturday, with an old friend and my cousin. The former wants to also visit Salamanca, my favourite Spanish city. So. I sent him this from my feed this morning.

One of the most impressive things about the (Marxist) Spanish healthcare system is that your doctor prescribes your med(s) in his/her computer and you pick up your prescription shortly after, using your health card. This used to be only valid in your region but I think they’re national now. Of course, every now and then the system goes down – as it did last night – but this is exceptionally rare.

Yesterday was our 30th day of continuous rain. Leading to me to wonder if we now have a new season in this part of Spain – the monsoon.

My old friend arriving in SdC Friday couldn’t get a train ticket to Pv city for love or money, a situation which has been true of Saturdays – until Xmas – for some time now. In answer to his puzzlement as to how this could possibly happen, I posited 4 real/possible factors:-

1. Students bringing washing home
2. Shoppers going on to new huge mall In Vigo
3. A state-owned railway unwilling/incapable of adding trains
4. A post-Covid government scheme making all short and middle distance train travel free!

There might be more . . .

Germany

A hundred years ago . . . Herr Hitler is confined in the fortress of Landsberg, about 35 miles west of Munich. Landsberg is by no means an unpleasant place of confinement. The prisoners are mostly political offenders and are allowed a considerable amount of personal liberty, books to read, special food and opportunities for exercises and sport, practically the only restriction being that they may not leave the grounds of the fortress. The trial of Herr Hitler is not likely to be held until after Christmas at the earliest; by that time public sentiment in his favour will probably have abated. When it is held the trial will not be before a jury but before a bench of judges. If found guilty of high treason, Herr Hitler could be sentenced to death, but it is probable that a term of imprisonment in the fortress in which he is now confined will be considered sufficient.

Of course, he wasn’t executed – a huge shame – and used his time in the fortress to write the appllling Mein Kampf, which told the world exactly what he’d do, if he came to power. But the world didn’t listen. Until it was too late.

Iran

As a lover of Iran and Iranians, I’d say that – if you know nothing about the influence of its 2 great empires on the Near and Middle East – then you’re pretty historically ignorant. As I would be, if I hadn’t lived there for 3 years. And, if you don’t know much about the current influence of the Iranian Islamic Republic – which is extremely malevolent – then you need to listen to this discussion. It’s impossible to get anything like a balanced view of the Middle East – assuming that’s possible – without taking this into consideration. Depressing and worrying as it is.

Did you know? . . .

Some 88 countries are ranked as closed or elective autocracies. They rule over 70% cent of the global population. One of these is oil-rich Venezuela, which might just be on the way to democracy, says this columnist.

Finally . . .

British names of the upper classes can be ‘interesting’. I read yesterday of someone called Sir Dighton Probyn. My guess is that 99% of the world’s population wouldn’t know how to pronounce at least his forename.

This week I’ve had to resort to an old mobile phone, because the screen of my newer one had become totally illegible, as a result of me getting it wet a while ago. The only problem I had was that Whatsapp refused to open without a code sent to the phone with an illegible screen. You’d think they might have thought of this possibility and given me the option of an email notification.

The Usual Links . . .

For new readers:– If you’ve landed here looking for info on Galicia or Pontevedra, try here. If you’re passing through Pontevedra on the Camino, you’ll find a guide to the city there – updated a bit in early July 2023.

For those thinking of moving to Spain:- This is an extremely comprehensive and accurate guide to the challenge, written by a Brit who lives in both the North and the South and who’s very involved in helping Camino walkers.

THE POWER TO PARDON IN SPAIN

The Spanish Prime Minister has the power to pardon people who have been convicted of crimes, according to Article 62 of the Spanish Constitution. However, this power is not exclusive to the Prime Minister, and there are other authorities who can also grant pardons in Spain. Some of them are:

• The King/Queen of Spain: Can grant pardons in the name of the State, acting on the proposal of the Prime Minister and with the countersignature of the Minister of Justice. This is the most common and frequent way of granting pardons in Spain.
• The Parliament of Spain: Can grant pardons by means of a law, which requires the approval of the Congress of Deputies and the Senate.
• The Autonomous Communities of Spain: Can grant pardons for crimes that fall within their jurisdiction, according to their own statutes of autonomy and laws.

THE CAMINO PRIMITIVO

26.4.16: Thoughts from the Camino Primitivo

Well, here I am, dear reader – taking a day out to recover from 3 gruelling days of walking up hill and down dale with 10ko of stuff on my back and 1 kilo of mud on my boots. I wonder whether the Asturian paths are ever dry. Certainly not after 6 weeks of almost incessant rain. Incidentally . . .  Did you know that the word ‘Asturias’ comes from Visigoth for ‘Folk of the vast thighs’? Honest.

I’ve had a lot of time to think about this Camino Primitivo as I’ve slogged up numerous rock and mud-filled inclines, stopping for 30 to 60 seconds after every 100 to 200 metres. And here are the circumstances is which you should not essay it:

• You are not a masochist
• You are not fit enough to join the Marines
• You are in a wheelchair
• You only have one leg
• You are on a bike of either 2 wheels or just 1
• You don’t fancy walking uphill with a huge weight on your back for several kilometres at a time
• You have an aversion to water or mud
• You don’t fancy walking on slippy jagged rocks
• You positively dislike the idea of falling on said rocks
• You are afraid of cows
• You hate the smell of cow piss or shit
• You are not that impressed by mountain scenery even when you are not exhausted
• You are above a certain age. Work this out for yourself
• The colour green makes you vomit or see everything as red
• If you are dumb enough to think using 2 poles is sissy
• If anyone Dutch suggests it would be a nice way to see some countryside which isn’t flat. (By the way, the term ‘flat’ is  relative in Asturias, in the same way as ‘low’ is in the Himalayas.)
• You don’t think that climbing up several hundred metres just to see a few wind turbines is really worth it
• You are sane
• You are unwise enough to doubt what I’ve written here
• You are already dead
• You have anything else to do. Anything at all.

In fact, there are another 17 reasons for eschewing this challenge but I haven’t thought of them yet.

As for why you should do the Primitivo . . .  Up until 6.15 last night, I was bereft of ideas. It was then that I hobbled into the hamlet of Campiello, where a young Dutch woman with the smile of an angel was standing on the steps of the place’s hotel – well, only building really – welcoming me for the night. As it were.

Though the gilt fell off the gingerbread when she told me there were 2 flights of stairs to negotiate en route to my room. And that there was no bath there, only a shower.

But these things are sent to try us and tomorrow is another day. After the blessed respite of this one.

Tomorrow and tomorrow and tomorrow.

More anon.

30.4.16: Practical advice for the Camino Primitivo

If you’re reading this because you’re contemplating doing the Primitivo camino, please first read my post of April 26, in which I suggest this should only be done in rather narrow circumstances. Now on to the advice:

• Bear in mind that, when everyone says that this is the both the most beautiful and the toughest camino, this classifies as British understatement. At least as regards the second aspect.
• Unless you’re supremely fit and young – or a Marine or an Olympic athlete – train for this challenge. Practice walking up steep slopes with at least 10 kilos on your back. Perhaps one of your children.
• Don’t attempt to do this camino without poles or with only one. Take two. You’ll certainly need them.
• Go on the internet and view the short but very useful videos on pole technique.
• Don’t do this camino in winter unless you’re what’s used to be called an Eskimo.
• If you’re planning to do the walk in spring or autumn, do your hill practice while pouring water on yourself and changing into your wet-weather gear at the same time. And, if you can find some mud, spend an hour or two a day, tramping through this at the same time. Preferably uphill but also downhill. Add rocks, if these are to hand.
• When you read the advice that leggings are advisable, don’t laugh and ignore it. The only alternative is to roll your trousers up to your knees and get your shins and calves wet and/or muddy. If you don’t do either of these, ‘wicking’ will ensure you eventually have wet thighs and groin even when the rest of you is dry under your wet-weather gear. As for the latter, some believe that waterproof jacket and trousers are superior to the ubiquitous cape. If you do opt for the former, make sure you have a waterproof cover for your backpack.
• Walk intelligently 1: If there is grass in the middle of the path or even at the side, walk on it. It’s like treading on a luxuriously thick carpet. Most pilgrims are like sheep; they stick (literally sometimes) to the mud and rock filled ruts. Actually, not like sheep as these would eat the grass first.
• Walk intelligently 2: Where there is water running down one of the ruts, walk in it. It’s always shallow and on rock, so easier and faster to negotiate – and less energy sapping – than mud. The same applies to muddy pools, though it’s best to check the depth of these with a pole before you tread in them. This assumes your footwear is waterproof. If it isn’t, get rid of it pdq.
• Walk intelligently 3: When negotiating mud or rocks – or the dreaded combination of both – take a tip from rock climbers and be sure you know where you’re going to put your foot before you raise it from the ground. This might slow you down a bit – and prevent rubber-necking – but it reduces the risk of falling and breaking a leg. Or at least twisting an ankle.
• If you’re walking alone, make sure you have a phone number to call in the case of problems. There aren’t many pilgrrims on this camino – at least in April – and you might have to wait quite a while for one to come along and help you. Assuming you survive. Also make sure your friend keeps his or her phone on.
• Try to stay in either the albergue or hotel owned by Herminia in the hamlet of Campiello, after Tineo. Or at least stop there for a drink or a meal. She and her lovely Dutch assistant – Jaimelee/Emilia/Emily – are angels. And the food is great. Particularly the delicious, energy restoring potage.
• Take time out to visit the Ethnographic Museum in Grandas del Salime. Most of you will find it fascinating. The rest of you can run through it and go on your way.
• If you give up – for whatever reason – in said Grandas de Salime, there’s an Alsa bus at 6.30am to Oviedo. Though you might have to change – and wait 20-30 minutes – in Tineo. This is likely to be the most tortuous and occasionally terrifying bus ride you’ll ever have. Rather like crossing the Alborz mountains between Tehran and the Caspian Sea in Iran. Though without all the wrecked cars lying at the bottom of the numerous ravines.

Finally . . . Enjoy it. There are spectacular views at every height, ranging from (steep!) green meadows to snowy peaks. Starting early can give you lovely cloud views. To be distinguished from fog.

I do hope this advice helps you achieve the goal of enjoyment. Not to mention achievement.