Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts the stars to flight.

And, lo, has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light!

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable: Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain’

Cosas de España/Galicia

All you need to know about the protests about the PM’s massive concessions to separatist parties. These include, by the way, massive debt forgiveness to one of Spain’s richest regions. Which hasn’t gone down at all well with the poorer ones, such as Galicia. But folk here always vote for the right-wing PP party, so I guess Sr Sánchez won’t care much about screams from here. The most worrying sentence: One group of police officers said they were “ready to shed every last drop of our blood” to defend the constitution. Followed by the – naturally divisive – statements of the leader of the far-right Vox party.

And here’s the VdG this morning: Nearly half a million people, according to the authorities (two million, according to the organizers), supported yesterday’s the call from the Popular Party and demonstrated in the 52 provincial capitals against the agreements signed by the PSOE with Junts and ERC to approve an amnesty law in exchange for facilitating the investiture of Pedro Sánchez as president of the Government. In the central act in Madrid, the PP president claimed that the majority of Spaniards against the pardon to the pro-independence supporters “are no longer silent” and that they will continue protesting until new elections are called. For her part, Madrid’s president raised the tone further and reiterated her argument that Spain is heading towards a dictatorship and promised to “respond blow for blow”. The response was also high in Galicia, where almost 13,000 people (30,000 according to the PP) supported senior PPdeG officials in their criticism of the Government.

One thing strikes me . . . The contrast between these protests and the silence which greets the pardoning of politicians jailed for very serious corruption offences – under the powers given for this to a Spanish PM, which seem wider than elsewhere. Except, perhaps, the USA. Or certainly the USA, if Trump is in power there.

I think I was wrong to suggest that validation of the Galician myth re Ireland is to be found in the Book of Kells. The correct reference is to the Leabhar Gabhála Éireann, the ‘LGE’.

Here’s one article on the question of whether the Irish came from Spain,

And here’s a research paper on the subject, entitled: Ritual and Myths between Ireland and Galicia. The Irish Milesian Myth in the Leabhar Gabhála Éireann. The most relevant section is on page 26, on identifying the common traits existing between Ireland and Galicia during the pre-Christian period. On the same page there’s also some interesting views of the Greek geographer Strabo on Galician (Celtic-like) customs. As the author says: In the LGE it was stated that a wave of invaders had arrived in Ireland, coming from Galicia, Brigantia, nowadays La Coruña. It may appear that, despite Murguia‘s strong arguments about the Celtic origins of Galicia, his hypothesis has been rebutted by new generations of intellectuals.

On the question of Galicia’s Celtic quintessence, the author has this to say: At this stage, the Galician language was a dialect of Latin and evolved as a Romance language with a content of Celtic words, surnames and toponymy. With the absolutist rule of Isabel of Castille in the 15th century, Galicia was no longer a kingdom and the Galician language was forbidden by Isabel in her decree: Doma y Castración de Galicia – ‘Taming and Castration of Galicia’. Galicia’s identity and Galician language was forgotten for three and a half centuries, until it was rescued in the 19th century. At the end of that century, with the birth of Galician national identity or The Rexurdimento or Revival Movement, Galicia rediscovered its long forgotten past. And has traded very heavily on it ever since . . .

Finally on this, María has sent this article on genetic links between the Galicians and the Irish. I recall similar findings about the original Brits, though with more of an emphasis on Basque links. What’s undoubtedly true is that folk from the Iberian coasts sailed NW to the British Isles Annoying for the Irish, these include the island of Ireland, as it’s a geographical term, not a political one. Controversial.

Not very surprised to read that the explosion in `pilgrim` numbers has led to many new businesses in Pv city. Twelve more albergues – mostly private – is a case in point. And to think that more than 10 years ago – if not 15 – it struck me that there had to be money-making opportunities for those interested. Which I, for one, wasn’t particularly. But I did think about a mobile massage service. Only for the wealthier ‘pilgrims’, of course. Who were clearly rapidly increasing in number. A relevant table:-

Very impressed this morning by the company who serviced my boiler in July recognising me simply by the number I called them on. Easily done, I guess, with today’s [AI?] technology but impressive nonetheless.

The rough ground in Lérez where I park my car is naturally flooded again. Worse than ever. Yesterday I saw 2 small, white egrets there, looking – I guess – for fish. And almost certainly having less success in their endeavours than whatever the 2 men – naked to at least the waist – were doing in the car parked next to mine . . . I decided not to look very hard.

Quote of the Day

She is the perfect politician for our age: she believes in nothing except what strikes her as useful at that moment.

Did you know? . . .

Reader Aleksandra has commented that citation of the world zozobra (gloom, etc.) reminded him of this odd festival: Zozobra (also known as “Old Man Gloom”) is a giant marionette effigy constructed of wood, wire and cotton cloth that is built and burned on the Friday of Labor Day weekend, prior to the annual Fiestas de Santa Fe in Santa Fe, New Mexico in the USA. . . The effigy embodies gloom and anxiety; by burning it, people destroy the worries and troubles of the previous year in the flames.

Todays’ Moan

[Apart from my boiler going on strike]

I mentioned yesterday the (impolite) folk who don’t thank me for telling them that the Moroccan restaurant ain’t a standard tapas joint. But far worse, of course, are people at the adjacent table who smoke – before, during and after they’ve eaten. Like a woman yesterday. In fact, smoking was banned – even outside – during the Covid period but then re-allowed, I think, according to whatever the bar/restaurant owner decided. That said, I doubt smokers ask if the owner permits it or not. She certainly didn’t. BTW . . . The waitress asked the woman which of the dishes she’d enjoyed most. I rather doubt she could tell the difference.

Finally . . .

I might well be one of the few people who’ve never worn a baseball bap back-to-front. The question occurred to me this morning – If you don’t want a peak over your forehead, why not get a huge yarmulke/kippah. Or – possibly less dangerous these days – one of those caps – zucchettos – that Catholic cardinals wear.

The Usual Links . . .

For new readers:– If you’ve landed here looking for info on Galicia or Pontevedra, try here. If you’re passing through Pontevedra on the Camino, you’ll find a guide to the city there – updated a bit in early July 2023.

For those thinking of moving to Spain:- This is an extremely comprehensive and accurate guide to the challenge, written by a Brit who lives in both the North and the South and who’s very involved in helping Camino walkers.