Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts the stars to flight.

And, lo, has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light!

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable: Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain’

Cosas de España

The last chapter of Nigel Townson’s book on modern Spain reviews the astonishing progress in economic and social matters of the last 45 years, many of which I’ve been a witness to. One day soon I’ll extract the stats and attach this to a future post . . . Meanwhile, I have to say that an equally ‘impressive’ list is that of all the (many) major corruption cases of that period. Nearly all of them are familiar to me – especially as I’ve read stuff by the crusading judge, Baltasar Garzón – but I’d missed the 2 ministerial resignations cited, perhaps because they’re so rare. And I was genuinely shocked to read that the PP and PSOE have colluded – and are still doing so – to ensure that neither party – nor any poltician – suffers because of shared responsibility for the negligence which led to the horrendous train crash near Santiado de Compostela in 2013 which killed around 70 people. Helped by politicised judges, one of Spain’s continuing blights.

To say the least, I’m not an expert on Spain’s quasi-federal form of government. So it surprised me to read that the regions could ignore (notionally?) national laws introduced by Madrid. For example, a 2005 law on dependency benefits. This was brought in by a left-wing government but ignored by more than one right-wing regional administration. Apparently with impunity.

Talking of laws . . . Not having a pet – other than the praying mantis I found in my garden last week – I’m not terribly interested in the new Animal Welfare law. Though I did read an article a day or so ago in which there was a long list of animals you could no longer keep in the house, including guinea pigs, rabbits, snakes and budgies*. Virtually everything except a cat, a dog or a ferret(hurón). And, maybe, a monkey. Or a praying mantis. It was claimed, not surprisingly, that the vast majority of pet-owners in Pv city/province wouldn’t be in compliance with the new law. And I think I’d read earlier that, while it would exist, it wouldn’t be enforced for a while. All rather confusing. Anyway, here’s Lenox Napier in his Spanish Shilling blog on the subject. Where he links to a list of what you can and can’t do to/with your mascota. I’ve occasionally wondered about keeping a ferret in my basement so am pleased to read that I still can. Assuming I comply with provisions re training myself and taking out the compulsory insurance that the vets must have lobbied for.

* From the article:-

For several weeks now, the stall-holders of Pv city’s periodic street-market have been protesting – eg via very slow convoys of cars, cars and trucks – against a move from the existing site to part of a main road – Avenida de Bos Aires – adjacent to the seafood and fish market. They’d prefer to have the Alameda but the mayor won’t let them. Things reached the point of farce a couple of days ago, when the police closed off the part of the avenue for the market but the traders refused to put up their stalls there. But they did block the ends of the stretch, causing even more of a traffic nuisance than would have been the case if the market had taken place. Something has to give. Otherwise we face months/years of city disruption. Making it even more unwise to take a car anyw here near the city. Which is what the mayor wants, or course. He’s a global celebrity now.

Talking of cities and things they don’t want . . . Here’s an article on Sevilla’s aim to tame participants in stag and hen parties.

Another quote from Cees Noteboom’s Roads to Santiago: The Bishoprics of Leon and Astorga were created as early as the 3rd century. The new religion brought with it an aroma of curious words, such as ‘love’ and ‘equality’, words which were well understood by the oppressed, the slaves. Rome bore the seeds of her own downfall. It was these Christians who, 4 centuries later, would stop the spread of another new religion, Islam. The fall of the Imperium was followed by a witches‘ ball. Marauding Germanic tribes, the unaccountable momentum of people streaming across the Pyrenees. Alani, Suevi,Vandals; plague and famine, the first martyrs, persecution of Christians, then the emergence of the Visigothic** kings and their conversion and again, Christianity. Only an impassioned dynastician can learn the steps of the dance that follows. [In Asturias, León and Navarra] – the only part of the country not occupied by Arabs at the time.

• * Bishop Ricks
• ** busy Gothic

Spanish

Brazo de gitano: Gypsy’s arm. Apparently what a Swiss roll is called here.

Did you know? . . .

The BBC some years ago had a decent 6-part series on the Spanish Civil War, which you can see on YouTube. Episode 1 opens with scenes from recently-visited Belchite.

Watching the final part last night, I came across a memorial song dedicated to the International Brigade which was decimated in the (futile) Battle of Jarama Valley. It’s sung to the tune of Red River Valley. Which brought back childhood memories for me, as my aunt in Canada had sent me a sort of floppy vinyl record with that on one side and Take me out to the Ballgame on the other. Here are 3 versions of the tribute to the foreigners who died in the name of Spanish liberty.

• Pete Seeger and the Almanac singers
• Woody Guthrie
• Peter Seeger on banjo

And here’s a Spanish version.

Finally . . .

A worrying report for those of us who use booking.com

For new readers:– If you’ve landed here looking for info on Galicia or Pontevedra, try here. If you’re passing through Pontevedra on the Camino, you’ll find a guide to the city there – updated a bit in early July 2023.

For those thinking of moving to Spain:- This is an extremely comprehensive and accurate guide to the challenge, written by a Brit who lives in both the North and the South and who’s very involved in helping Camino walkers.