Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts the stars to flight.

And, lo, has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light!

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable: Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain’

Cosas de España

Whenever I have visitors from outside Spain, I feel it incumbent on me to point out the brothels that are still in business and those which aren’t. Having noted the increasing numbers of the latter, I wasn’t too surprised to read in the VdG today that more than 50% of this business is now carried out in flats – pisos de relax – in urban centres. Sometimes to the considerable annoyance of residents.

But I was surprised to read that the Galician company Inditex – owner of, inter alia, Zara – had a massive increase in profits in the first half of this year. Must be doing something right.

Yesterday’s VdG reported that a basket of food now costs 26% more than it did 18 months ago, with sugar and olive oil being the worst offenders. This compares with a year-on-year official inflation rate of less than 2%. Which is quite hard to get one’s head round.

Education continues to be something of a poor relation in Spain, with the percentage of dropouts at 16 being much higher than the EU average.

Reader María confirms that she was disappointed at the state of Spanish toilets compared with those of France when she crossed the border coming home a few years ago. But I’m pleased to report that the servicios of the Moroccan restaurant – Dukela – in Pv city hits all 15 criteria. And the food is great too. More generally, things might well be going in the right directio.

Next to Dukela is now an Italian pinsería. This turns out to specialise in the (‘healthier’) Roman version of piza – pinsa.

A Spanish return to reality . . . The cita I had for a car service this morning turned out not to be a cita. Maybe mañana. Am very glad I left a few days margin before my annual ITV(MoT).

The UK

For those really interested in British politics, this FT columnist claims there’s a plot to destroy the Conservative party. I’m not clear whether this is from within or without.

The UK & Europe

One of my readers believes that the UK will crawl back into the EU within 10 years. I have my doubts, as does this columnist.

Spanish

I wrote the other day abut the pejorative words that feature in the RAE dictionary around the definition of ‘Jew’. Gallegos used to have the same complaint but a check reveals they seem to have been listened to.

Did you know? . . .

That truly awful chap. Andrew Tate, has converted to Islam, so as to take his vile philosophy eastward, it says here.

Finally . . .

Taking my old friend to Vigo airport at 8 this morning, we noted hundreds of ‘pilgrims’ along the old road to Pv city. On the way back, I clocked more than 60 entering the small town of Arcade. A conveyor built now. And then, coming into town at 11, I was passed by 6 or 7 folk on e-bikes crossing O Burgo bridge. Possibly with a company called Trek, if that isn’t the name of the bike manufacturer*. Things ain’t what they used to be.

*Which it is.

For new readers:– If you’ve landed here looking for info on Galicia or Pontevedra, try here. If you’re passing through Pontevedra on the Camino, you’ll find a guide to the city there – updated a bit in early July 2023.

For those thinking of moving to Spain:- This is an extremely comprehensive and accurate guide to the challenge, written by a Brit who lives in both the North and the South and who’s very involved in helping Camino walkers. Which is possibly why, I’ve just belatedly realised, his nom-de-plume is Johnnie Walker . . . And I’d thought he was a big whisky fan.