Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts the stars to flight.

And, lo, has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light!

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable: Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain’

Cosas de España

High stakes Politics: Says the FT:Catalan demands push Sánchez against the EU language barrier. More here.

Says the VdG: Puigdemont’s main demand, an amnesty, could happen as soon as a Belgian rooster crows, “En un tres y no res.” PSOE and Sumar could reduce the time for pardons for those involved in the “procés” by half. Since the Executive is in office, only a non-law proposal can solve the problem, with an emergency procedure by Congress: two weeks and two plenary sessions.

HT to Lenox Napier of Business Over Tapas for this tidbit: The Spanish don’t listen to anglo-music anymore says El Huff Post. Apparently, all the Number Ones in the hit-parade have been en castellano (except for Rosalia’s song, which is in Catalán)

Lenox also tells us that : A village on the frontier between Spain and Portugal is, in point of fact, divided between the 2 countries and has an hour’s difference from one side of the stream that passes through it with the other. The village, Rihonor de Castilla (or Rio de Onor, depending) is in Zamorra (or Bragança) and is described as a confusing place – they speak 2 different languages there, plus the local Rionorés and the situation hasn’t changed since a treaty confirming the frontier was signed by the Spanish and Portuguese kings back in 1143. I must visit it one day.

Talking of sight-seeing . . . We arrived last evening in Huesca, which was not somewhere we’d planned to stay. Because of road closures, we had difficulty getting to our hotel and, after several attempts through vatious city routes, began to wonder if we’d enjoy an evening there. Especially as there didn’t seem to be a Casco Viejo and Things To See in Huesca comprised yet another cathedral and 10 churches. But Spain rarely disappoints and we spent a very pleasant evening eating and drinking in the centre.

Belchite certainly hadn’t disappointed earlier in day – other than it seemed to have only one restaurant. And that was closed. I’d expected we’d be able to wander round the ruins of Old Belchite – smashed to pieces during the Civil War – but, in fact, the place is fenced off and entry is only possible through one of the old gateways, where you’ll be relieved of €8 for a guided tour in a group. This is in Spanish but they offer a good quality – albeit fewer-worded – audio guide in English. One reaches several conclusions on the way round the ruins. One of these, after seeing the 1942 fotos on display, is how devastatingly poor parts of Spain were in the 1940s.

Going even further back in time, this is an article on an ancient hillfort in Asturias. It was built by the Celts. But don’t tell the Galicians this, as they’re convinced the Celts only lived in their region, giving them exclusive bragging rights in Spain. And bloody bagpipes.

If you’re fond of the Jesuits, this is one of Spain’s many ‘authentic’ caminos. And this is one walker’s experience on it.

The most handsome Tax Office in Spain? Huesca’s:-

(A)GW/Energy/Net Zero

A shot across the bows? Western countries must not impose “restrictive” climate change policies on the developing world, Narendra Modi has warned. In an article for The Times, the Indian prime minister appears to criticise the failure of western nations to meet a pledge of spending $100 billion a year to help developing countries decarbonise, which is almost 3 years overdue. He also insists that any action to tackle global warming must be “complementary” to development, rather than risk holding back economic progress.

I guess it must be expensive to send a rocket to the dark side of the moon.

I wrote that before seeing this Richard North article, entitled Net Zero: Give us the money.

The Way of the World

Richard North in that article:  In an industry where the number of “clicks” determines advertising revenue, it was inevitable that publishers would vie for easy popularity and thus end up pandering to the lowest common denominator. Thus, we’re losing out on the Reithian approach to journalism, where the public is presented with material which people should be aware of, rather than the “click-bait” which drives up online hits. The corollary of that, sadly, is that where writers do take the time out to present material which lack vulgar appeal, they will suffer for it in terms of breadth of readership and very often financially. There is little money and less fame in telling people what they should know, rather than that which entertains them.

Did you know?

Checking for hotels Jaca, I was offered a room in the new 5-star Canfranc hotel at a mere €650 a night. Passed it up.

Finally . . .

I wasn’t pleased to be woken at 4 last night by the infernal buzzing of a hungry mosquito. Even less so to find I’d already been bitten on the arm. I spent 15-20 minutes scouring the room for it but – despite the fact the walls were bright white – never found it. So, imagine my pleasure, on waking at 6, to see it on the wall near my head. But, job done, I then had to clean the blood stain off the wall. Albeit with a lighter heart and a sense of satisfaction. Not exactly bullfighting but . . .

For new readers:– If you’ve landed here looking for info on Galicia or Pontevedra, try here. If you’re passing through Pontevedra on the Camino, you’ll find a guide to the city there – updated a bit in early July 2023.

For those thinking of moving to Spain:- This is an extremely comprehensive and accurate guide to the challenge, written by a Brit who lives in both the North and the South and who’s very involved in helping Camino walkers. Which is possibly why – I’ve just belatedly realised – his nom-de-plume is Johnnie Walker . . . And I’d thought he was a big whisky fan.