19 August 2023

Awake, for morning in the bowl of night has flung the stone that puts the stars to flight.

And, lo, has caught the sultan’s turret in a noose of light!

Spanish life is not always likeable but it is compellingly loveable: Christopher Howse: ‘A Pilgrim in Spain’

Cosas de España

Interesting* to see that Spain features among the countries topping the annual per capita consumption of meat. And yet, the Spaniard live longer than anyone else exept the Japanese.

* This is a word I’ve yet to type correctly. I always miss an E somewhere in it.

A recent theme here . . . Santiago de Compostela is said to be perched between the threat of collapse and the arrival of its millionth visitor. Residents are unhappy but the President of the Xunta Galicia believes there’s still room for more and has insisted “Turismofobia is something we can’t allow in Galicia”. But the residents of SdC will have been encouraged – thrilled, even – to hear that the new local government is looking for ways to change the tourism model. Some might live to see it. The tat-sellers are quite happy with the current one, of course. None of them has ever gone broke underestimating the taste of the public. To coin a well-known phrase.

On a happier note . . . My visitors and I went down to see a floral procession in Pv city last night, which was much enjoyed by the 3 kids. Especially the 5 year old who came home with 15 balloons somehow tied together. The rain which had been forecast to fall for at least the previous 24 hours finally arrived but, thankfully, only as the event was finishing. Though we did get soaked going home.

Relatedly . . . This is an unusual scene from my eyrie above the city.

A combination of rain and fiesta-driven road closures caused mayhem for drivers around 9pm last night. The parallel white lines are the roads on either side of the river Lérez, where the traffic was completely stationary for at least 30 minutes. The lucky ones among us know where to park to and how to get out of the city via the back roads.

Germany

HT to Lenox Napier of Business Over Tapas for this: Saturation in Mallorca: Germany questions whether the end of the Mallorcan dream has arrived. Besides the overcrowding, there is concern about the swing to the right in local politics and, of course, the blistering heat. Here in Spanish and here in the original German.

The USA

Would you bet against this? . . . Of course, Trump will be president again: He’s the perfect example of the American Dream. Success in the US is no longer about the nuclear family and a Kentucky Bluegrass lawn, it’s about being a skanky tycoon who marries a hottie. More material for Putin here.

Russia v Ukraine

The New York Times, citing US officials, reports that the total number of Ukrainian and Russian troops killed or wounded since the conflict began 18 months ago is nearing 500,000. Half a million devastated families. Callous madness. Sometimes you wish there really was a Hell.

Russia

Another one bites the dust. Number 8 since April last year, I believe.

Russia has a prisons watchdog?? Must be busy.

Did you know?

The superstition that green brings bad luck to actors is said to originate from the colour of the clothing Molière was wearing at the time of his death.

Finally . . .

Lenox Napier has written of the appearance of the ‘black fly’ in Spain. This, he reports, chews rather than siphons, leaving a wound which can itch for several days. I wonder if this is what bit me 5 itchy days ago. Lenox advises that ice or a corticoid cream are recommended but you shouldn’t scratch. I wish I’d read that earlier!

Talking of Lenox . . . Here he is on the joy of travelling. When he (and I) were a lot younger. Some good advice: As for the inspiring Mezquita in Córdoba or the Alhambra in Granada, their time as places to visit has passed. Santiago de Compostela or the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona – Don’t go. They are done; cooked; crammed; despoiled. How lucky he and I were to be able to enjoy these decades ago.

My readership yesterday was a good 20% up on the average. Surely not not because the text included ‘pornography’. More likely that the newcomers were students of Finnish . . .

To amuse . . . Guys, this is how Dior says you should be looking this summer. Assuming you want most of us to laugh at you. And you want to squirm at your fotos when you are 40.

For new readers:- If you’ve landed here looking for info on Galicia or Pontevedra, try here. If you’re passing through Pontevedra on the Camino, you’ll find a guide to the city there – updated a bit in early July 2023.